SRH Chardonnay 2023

SRH Chardonnay is made from a distinctive 12 row, 2.46 acre vineyard block, at the Olive Tree Hill vineyard. Planted in 1976 to clone P58, these rows are unique from the remainder of the vineyard in part due to being most in contact with and influenced by the site of an ancient seabed in the soil profile. The 12 rows sit in the middle of a north facing slope, and the rows run east-west. Our oldest Chardonnay vines, and always profoundly influenced by the complex soils of clay, limestone and marine sediment.

Handpicked parcels of fruit were whole bunch pressed, settled over night, and racked to barrels for a wild yeast fermentation in French oak hogsheads; approximately 30% was new oak. Malolactic fermentation occurred on 70% of the blend, with the remainder blocked. The wine was left on lees unstirred for 10 months prior to blending and bottling.

The 2023 SRH Chardonnay offers vibrant and rich aromas of stone fruit, various citrus, cream filled pastry and buttered popcorn with hints of flint and well integrated oak flavours. The flavours are intense but very pure and balanced, with a an array of fruit aromas, yeasty dough characters, chalk, oak spice and smoke. This is an outstanding release and without a doubt, one of the best SRH to date.

97 points. The nose has mineral depth with underlying power, showing aromas of lemon confit, orange blossoms and struck match. The palate is medium- to full-bodied with notes of kaffir limes, creme brulee, sweet spices and chalk. Made from a selection of 12 rows planted in 1976. Exceptional. Drink or hold. Screw cap. Ryan Montgomery, jamessuckling.com

96 points.The 2023 SRH Chardonnay is textural and taut; it is bound in phenolics at this point, but clearly superb. The length of flavor shows this. The complexity shows this. It's a hugely impressive wine that speaks of white peach, green apples, green olive brine, white strawberries and white pepper. It's salty and a little chewy. This will be a seriously great wine—give it time. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Erin Larkin, robertparker.com.

95+ points. The intensity of flavour here is significant. This is a rocket of a wine. Grapefruit, lime, lemon curd, sweet peach, tinned pear and pineapple characters come wrapped in smoky-sweet cedarwood. Acidity, barley-and-lemon-drenched, is prominent too, in keeping with the power of the fruit. It needs time for certain, but this is quite a wine. Campbell Mattinson, winefront.com.au.